Weekend Bonus Brief: For Rock Hounds and Jewelry Lovers

If you are headed out to comb your local flea markets or to a larger antique market this weekend, keep your eyes out for some Scottish agate jewelry.

The silver and agate-inlay jewelry is most commonly found in circular form brooches that were used to hold a shoulder wrap of traditional Highland costume in place or in a miniature dirk, a knife-like shape. Bracelets, bar pins and pendants are also found incorporating hearts, buckles, shields, snakes and knot motifs.

Agate is a variety of quartz, in the same family as amethyst and citrine, but it has a different crystal structure.  While amethyst and citrine have well formed crystals, in agate microscopic individual layer of crystals have arranged themselves in layers with various transparencies of rich earthy tones, bright white and black. This produces fabulous multi-color patterns.

This type of jewelry was a favorite of the Victorians. Queen Victoria loved jewelry: she also loved Scotland, the Highlands and everything Scottish. In 1847 she built Balmoral Castle, where the British Royal Family still spends holidays. Then, as well as today, you could see the Royal Family dressed in Highland costume: jewelry plays an essential part in this costume. You can add a bit of Highland tradition to your jewelry collection. These pieces can regularly be found at antique shops and markets.  They are fabulous to hold scarves, adorn jackets or anywhere that the rich earth tones compliment.

Add Some Victorian Style to Your Jewelry Box

Bangle bracelets were as popular with the Victorians as they are today! While everyone is wearing them, be the one to wear the one that no one else has! Victorian bracelets were often sold in pairs; today in the estate market it is more difficult to find the pairs still together. Predominately yellow gold, bracelets can be found with fabulous Etruscan revival style applied gold beading and wire twist work, a unique cameo or a micro mosaic depicting a Roman scene or simple black enamel accents. Wearing Victorian jewelry today is fun, and believe it or not…fashion forward.

For more Victorian inspired jewelry fashion check out “Town and Country” magazine September 2008 article “Snake Charmers” to see Victorian-style snake rings for Fall.

Victorian Jewelry

The reign of Queen Victoria lasted from 1837 to 1901; and various styles are associated with the long reign of Queen Victoria. Parurers, or matching suites of jewelry, remained a constant throughout the period, although later giving way to smaller demi-parurers. These often contained a necklace, drop earrings, brooch and a bracelet or two. Victoria’s reign can be divided in to early, mid, and late for fashion influences in jewelry.

Early Victorian jewelry can be referred to as the Romantic period. Throughout this period the jewelry was primarily composed of yellow gold, hardstones and semi-precious gemstones. Coral, cameos, turquoise, seed pearls and garnets are prevalent in the early Victorian period.

The mid-Victorian period is marked by the death of Victoria’s husband, Prince Albert; in 1861 a twenty-year period of mourning jewelry was begun. During this period black material such as jet, gutta percha and black enamel were greatly used in jewelry. Pietra dura and micro mosaics were very popular. Various motifs of applied gold embellishments on jewelry were influenced by different revivals, including Etruscan, Egyptian and Renaissance.

In late Victorian jewelry we begin to see the introduction of white metal, initially silver topped gold and later platinum. Jewelry is set with diamonds and lighter colored stones in general including moonstones and sapphires. Designs become lighter and more delicate. Finally in 1896, we see the addition of beautiful, delicate enamel pieces to commemorate the Jubilee of Victoria’s Coronation.