2011 Style Setters Review

This year at The Jewelry Brief I was lucky enough to interview five inspirational jewelry designers that are true gems in their own right. They are from far reaching corners of the globe and at different stages in their careers, but they all share the same passion for art, design and adornment.

I was delighted when Emily Wheat Maynard agreed to talk to us about her breathtaking jewelry brand, Elva Fields. As all her pieces are comprised of vintage components, each one is truly unique. Emily told us that she takes inspiration from the materials themselves and creates her collection using all the beautiful objects she finds. The stunning results are perfect jewelry for the environmentally conscious.

Jeweler, Paolo Costagli told us of the fusion between the traditional and contemporary aspects of his work and the emphasis he places on quality craftsmanship. We were also interested to learn that his knowledge of gemstones and eye for exquisite color combinations form the basis of his creative process. This combined with his upbringing in culturally rich Florence and his love of French jewelers, have inspired him to create classic jewelry that will stand the test of time.

Designer Tiffany Chou fascinated us with her ocean influenced jewelry. She told us of how important the ocean was to her, growing up on the island of Maui, and this influence is apparent through her work. Tiffany also told us that she was committed to making her jewelry affordable, so that everyone could enjoy wearing something beautiful. An unusual concern for a jeweler, but one which her fans greatly appreciate.

Shlomit Ofir answered questions from her studio in Tel Aviv. A brilliant young designer, who sees design as a way of living. She is inspired by “snap shots” from every day life so her pieces reflect a wide range of themes from beautiful birds to mid-century modern formica furniture. Shlomit also has a commitment to affordability, which allows her customer to take a chance on a unique piece.

The final interview was with Gerard Yosca, who has been making women glamorous for 25 years. Season after season, he has been creating bold, colorful statement pieces that are hand crafted in his New York studio. He said that he designs for the woman who, “gets excited about her jewelry and wears it because she likes it, regardless of whether it is on trend or appropriate”. I think he was talking about me!

The Jewelry Brief would like to thank Emily Wheat Maynard, Paolo Costagli, Tiffany Chou, Shlomit Ofir and Gerard Yosca once again for their time and wish them every success and a very prosperous 2012.

Happy New Year,

April

 

Style Setters: The Jewelry Brief Interviews Evelyn Huang

Evelyn Huang is the talented jewelry visionary behind the designs of evelynH. Jewelry. Initially exposed to the world of gems and diamonds through her father’s fine jewelry business business, Evelyn left her family company and earned a degree in Economics from UC Irvine. After spending a few years in Asia she returned to the US and to her love of jewelry. Evelyn earned her Graduate Gemologist degree from the Gemological Institute of American and began work as a brand ambassador for De Beers in Beverly Hills. For the delight of jewelry collectors everywhere, in 2006 evelynH. was launched. And the accolades have not stopped.

The focus of evelynH. is fine, custom, one-of-a-kind pieces. Working under the motto “Everything is considered and nothing is overlooked”, unique pieces are crafted incorporating precious gemstones with breath-taking attention to detail.  Shown here is evelynH’s 2009 award-winning necklace from the Rio Tinto’s Champagne Diamond Design Competition. The “Bulles de Champagne Collier” is an attention grabbing whimsical neckpiece featuring champagne colored diamonds set in a design that mimics bubbles. The creative, daring neck piece is one which we might expect to see from the finest French jewelry houses. But Evelyn Huang’s scope of work is very vast. The architectural and edgy ring which won the 2010 International Red Dot Jewelry Product Design Award proves that brilliant design is her trademark, not one particular style.

evelynH. produces several thoughtful, well designed collections. The bridal line is especially noteworthy with its “his and hers” wedding bands which capture the essence of various design themes in masculine and feminine versions. The Infinity rings (shown here) won a Women’s Jewelry Association 2007 award for Platinum and Diamonds Design. My favorite is the Trellis, where one design is at the same time a heavy and masculine band and a diamond-set elegant ring that would make any woman smile (every day).

What is the main source of your design inspiration?

Everything around me can inspire my designs.  The experiences in my life, the people I meet, the places I visit, and things I see in my day-to-day life.  There is not one particular source for inspiration.

Who has been the most influential in your life?

Different people have been influential at different points in my life. On a personal relationship level it would be my family, friends and colleagues.  On the other hand, I have been inspired by public figures with different point-of-views and who are currently pushing or have pushed the boundaries in different aspects of design, including fashion.  It might sound cliché, but I find a figure like Coco Chanel inspiring.  She was willing to push certain boundaries during her time.

What do you see as up and coming trends in jewelry design?

Jewelry design is such a broad category, we have high-end couture jewelry at one end and mass produced costume and fashion jewelry on the other end.  This makes identifying trends more rigorous to classify.  For example, fashion jewelry can be very wild and over the top, however with fine jewelry’s high intrinsic value, you wouldn’t want to purchase a piece at $100,000 and have it look out of fashion in a year later. In general as a custom designer, I have found the fine details have become very important to consumers. The little things found on a piece of jewelry make it different and more personal, as well as implementing textures and the utilization of new materials in jewelry.  I think uniqueness, customization, value and alternative materials all have become major trends in the fine jewelry industry.

How would you describe your own personal [jewelry] style?

I am a chameleon…I would like to think I don’t have an exact personal style.  I know it might seem strange since most designers have a certain design aesthetic, but I’m always open to new ideas and love trying new things.  Everything around us is always changing; trends come and go, so I don’t want to hold myself back by sticking to one specific style. Of course, there is a link between all of my designs, and after looking at a few pieces you can find a common thread or feeling.  I would never consistently feature something very obvious and concrete such as swirls or flowers, or anything else limiting like that.  The only common links you may see in my creations are things like movement, textures and intricate ornamentations.  It is my goal 30 years from now, to be able to still create pieces that are fresh and different and will continue to surprise people.

What is your favorite luxury in life?

Time with loved ones.

Style Setters: The Jewelry Brief Interviews Etienne Perret

Jeweler Etienne Perret lives and works in a part of the country where beauty and tranquility have fostered the genius of artists of many genres. The coastline of Camden, Maine drew him in at the age of nineteen, and it was there that he began to pursue his hobby of silversmithing. The Bauhaus design influences from his childhood gave shape to his extensive body of award-winning designs.

I was introduced to the creations of Etienne Perret by his son Michael, with the promise of being inspired. I was immediately drawn to the simplified, sculptural forms of bands, bangles and earrings which make up Etienne’s collections. They are functional yet so very elegant. True to his tag line “Nobody treats diamonds better”, diamonds and colored diamonds are bezel set with extreme precision and crispness into Etienne’s designs. A perfect example of bezel setting is the colored diamonds and black ceramic bangle bracelet pictured on the left. While many of his pieces are in platinum and yellow or white gold, I am crazy for Etienne Perret’s colored high-tech ceramic.

I encourage you all to visit www.EtiennePerret.com to see his full line of jewelry, learn more about the jeweler himself, colored diamonds and Camden, Maine.

What is the source of your design inspiration?

I grew up in a very modern house designed by a partner of Marcel Breuer.

Our furniture was Bauhaus design.

My father was a painter and sculptor creating works that were on display around me as a child.

Camden, Maine is a beautiful, idyllic place; how has your setting influenced your work?

I try to live my life first, before career. It is much easier focusing on what I want to do being away from the turmoil of the cities.

Your work is very sculptural. Do you or have you ever considered creating art other than jewelry?

Yes, I have been developing a collection of bas-relief sculptures of the human figure, carved marble pieces that are a couple feet across and only a few inches deep to hang on the walls.

What is the greatest luxury in life?

Without question the best time in my life is the intimate time I spend with my wife.

For more picture of Etienne Perret creations please visit the Jewelry Brief’s Facebook page.

Style Setters: The Jewelry Brief Interviews Faraone Mennella

This is the first post of a “Style Setters” series brought to you by The Jewelry Brief. In each post of the series, the Brief will reach out to the creative minds behind today’s best jewelry, and ask the about their inspiration, style and influences.

Faraone Mennella by R.F.M.A.S. was founded in New York City in 2001 by two longtime friends, Roberto Faraone Mennella and Amedeo Scognamiglio, who moved to the United States to further their professional design interests after growing up in Italy surrounded by art and beauty. Faraone Mennella by R.F.M.A.S. produces jewelry of timeless style and elegance for every woman, from collections sold at major retailers to one-of-a-kind jewelry couture featured on the large and small screen made for some of the world’s most glamorous women.

Their complete collections can be viewed at www.rfmas.com

A while back, Amedeo sent me a thank you e-mail for a post that I had written about Faraone Mennella earlier this year. Amedeo and Roberto graciously agreed to answer a few questions for The Jewelry Brief, reaffirming once again my belief that the world is small and people are kind.

What is the source for your design inspiration?

We like to think of ourselves as “artisans” of the jewelry design, so while we draw inspiration from many sources (Capri, the 60′s Dolce Vita, Romy Schneider…) we are mostly driven by the beauty of creation. The “bench” is our main source. It drives our work.

Is there a secret to your contemporary yet timeless style?

The secret is staying focused on the message: We want our pieces to be a beautiful adornment for women, constructed with elegance. Classic is discreet, when jewelers conceptualize too much they get lost in the process.

Who has had the greatest influence on your life?

Our grandmothers: Augusta (for Amedeo) and Stella (for Roberto).

What do you love most about what you do?

When a woman stops us in a restaurant to say she loves our work and that she gets compliments every time she wears our pieces. That is the ultimate goal, the look on that face.

What is the greatest luxury that you treat yourself to?

Luxury is quite an overrated word nowadays, and overused. To us luxury is a not repeatable “experience”. Having dinner with friends on my terrace, overlooking the Capri’s marina and the entire bay of Naples in Summer, is priceless.