Pearls

All pearls, whether natural, cultured from salt water or fresh are created in the same way. Natural Pearls are formed inside a mussel shell, or mollusk, where an irritant, such as a parasite, has entered the body and the mollusk secrets nacre to cover the irritation, making it therefore less irritating. Cultured pearls are formed in the same manner, but the irritant, generally a bead is placed in the mussel shell intentionally. The bead is obviously larger than a parasite, making the process much faster.

Natural Pearls are very rare and therefore quite costly. Occasionally pieces with natural pearls come up at auction, like the Baroda Pearls sold in April 2007 at Christie’s in New York. The historic two-strand natural pearl necklace of 68 pearls, ranging in size from approximately 9.47mm to 16.04mm, with a diamond clasp by Cartier, en suite with a pair of ear pendants, brooch and ring fetched $7,096,000!!! This price set a world auction record for pearls.

In general, when we refer to pearls as a contemporary jewelry item, the pearls are cultured. The price of these pearls takes into consideration several different factors, all of which are based on rarity. Simply put, the more “perfect” the pearl, the more rare it is and the price is higher. Pearls are valued upon their size, the larger the better. Round (spherical) pearls are considered the best shape. The shapes can be described as round, near round all the way to baroque, completely out of round and symmetry. Pearls can be found in almost any color of the rainbow, but the most common colors are neutrals. There are also several surface quality criteria, which examine the thickness of the nacre of the pearl and how perfect or imperfect the condition is. Finally, and perhaps most important, the pearls in any piece of jewelry should be well match. This is important for the look and the long-term value of the jewelry.

Saltwater pearls are primarily a product of Japan, and range in size from 6-10 mm, the average being the most common. South Sea pearls, cultivated mainly in Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines, are also saltwater pearls and are generally from 8-15mm in diameter. Tahitian pearls are cultivated primarily on the islands of French Polynesia, and range in size from 8-14mm.

Today freshwater pearls come mainly from China, and can be found in a large range of shape sizes and colors. Over the past few years the Chinese have been producing larger and rounder freshwater pearls.

**This section is based upon the Gemological Institute of America’s pearl grading system.