2011 Style Setters Review

This year at The Jewelry Brief I was lucky enough to interview five inspirational jewelry designers that are true gems in their own right. They are from far reaching corners of the globe and at different stages in their careers, but they all share the same passion for art, design and adornment.

I was delighted when Emily Wheat Maynard agreed to talk to us about her breathtaking jewelry brand, Elva Fields. As all her pieces are comprised of vintage components, each one is truly unique. Emily told us that she takes inspiration from the materials themselves and creates her collection using all the beautiful objects she finds. The stunning results are perfect jewelry for the environmentally conscious.

Jeweler, Paolo Costagli told us of the fusion between the traditional and contemporary aspects of his work and the emphasis he places on quality craftsmanship. We were also interested to learn that his knowledge of gemstones and eye for exquisite color combinations form the basis of his creative process. This combined with his upbringing in culturally rich Florence and his love of French jewelers, have inspired him to create classic jewelry that will stand the test of time.

Designer Tiffany Chou fascinated us with her ocean influenced jewelry. She told us of how important the ocean was to her, growing up on the island of Maui, and this influence is apparent through her work. Tiffany also told us that she was committed to making her jewelry affordable, so that everyone could enjoy wearing something beautiful. An unusual concern for a jeweler, but one which her fans greatly appreciate.

Shlomit Ofir answered questions from her studio in Tel Aviv. A brilliant young designer, who sees design as a way of living. She is inspired by “snap shots” from every day life so her pieces reflect a wide range of themes from beautiful birds to mid-century modern formica furniture. Shlomit also has a commitment to affordability, which allows her customer to take a chance on a unique piece.

The final interview was with Gerard Yosca, who has been making women glamorous for 25 years. Season after season, he has been creating bold, colorful statement pieces that are hand crafted in his New York studio. He said that he designs for the woman who, “gets excited about her jewelry and wears it because she likes it, regardless of whether it is on trend or appropriate”. I think he was talking about me!

The Jewelry Brief would like to thank Emily Wheat Maynard, Paolo Costagli, Tiffany Chou, Shlomit Ofir and Gerard Yosca once again for their time and wish them every success and a very prosperous 2012.

Happy New Year,

April

 

Style Setter: The Jewelry Brief Interviews Gerard Yosca

Gerard Yosca’s work speaks for itself. One look at his bold, colorful designs and you will understand that his vision is about playful, unique statement pieces. Throughout his 25 years in business, Yosca has stayed true to his vision and consistently creates bold, beautiful jewelry adorning some of the world’s most glamorous women and prestigious catwalks. Yosca has collaborated with many clothing designers including Ralph Lauren, Oscar De La Renta, Nicole Miller, and Nanette Lepore. He is an Emeritus Board Member of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America).

 

His colorful, playful attitude is reminiscent of a kid in a candy shop, and in some ways he is one. Born and raised in Queens, New York, Yosca’s career truly began when he was a child. He made craft objects and sold them on the counter of his father’s butcher shop for 10 cents a piece. His first creation was a pom pom critter with two plastic, beady eyes. The bright colors he chose for his creations call to mind the unflinching use of color in his hand-painted jewelry pieces. At Parsons School of Design he studied graphic design and advertising, but soon after returned to his love of the handmade arts. All of the his jewelry is still handcrafted in his New York Studio. Yosca prefers the title Fashion Designer; each season he creates a new, unique and inspired collection. He never follows trends, sees elements of design inspiration all around him and at the end of the day does what he has always loved to do. Women across the globe are lucky for that!

 

What is the most distinguishing characteristic in your design portfolio?

What seems so obvious is the way I work with color… painterly and the way I mix different “attitudes” in my work. You will see rough organic mixed with very refined.

 

What do you enjoy most doing?

I love building a collection. The color, scale, what motif to weave into it. When it all starts to make sense is still so exciting.

 

What are you favorite qualities in a woman to design jewelry for?

Guts. I design for a woman who gets excited by her jewelry and wears it because she likes it regardless of whether it is on trend or appropriate.

 

What is your favorite color?

Green-all the way from acid to brown/grey.

 

Who are your favorite artists?

Peter Doig for color, line, content. I never get tired of his work. Calder, for wit. Louis Comfort Tiffany, I’ve been obsessed with his glass works since I was a child.

 

What is your idea of happiness?

Being with someone to share all of the amazing things (and some bad!) that I get to see and do in this crazy lifetime.

 

 

 

 

The Jewelry of David Noble

If you covet jewelry that could adorn a rock-star, look no further than the collections of David Noble. His impressive pieces feature hammered metal finishes and ornate patterns inspired by ancient artefacts from Roman, Mayan and Etruscan treasures. Noble achieves his signature intricate embellishment by using the ‘lost wax’ method, a technique dating back more than 6,000 years that he learned at The Evanston School of Art in the late 1990’s. Prior to this he had enjoyed a successful career designing and sketching women’s wear for Bill Blass, Geoffrey Beene and Pauline Trigere. During the 80’s he launched Noble for Benton Suits, his own label that created lines for television shows including Dynasty and The Love Boat and the movie Tootsie. He also provided all the sketches for Women’s Wear Daily.

 

Working in silver and 18 karat gold, Noble produces exquisitely detailed designs involving articulated hinges to allow exceptional movement. These are often enhanced with unusual bezel set gemstones such as iolite, kyanite, peridot and tsavorite garnet that add to the antiquarian flavor of his work. Speaking of his passion for the past Noble says, “The more detailed and the more history a piece has, the more inspirational it is to me.”

 

To view his stunning statement pieces of the current collection, visit DavidNobleandCo.com

 

 

 

 

Style Setter: The Jewelry Brief Interviews Shlomit Ofir

Shlomit Ofir is a young Israeli designer with an amazing amount of talent and seemingly endless energy! She blogs; designs jewelry, clothing and accessories; and recently opened her second shop. I discovered her jewelry in an organic google search on vermeil. I was drawn to the simplicity and creativity of her designs. Shlomit’s pieces are beautiful, easy to wear and there is a piece for every mood or destination.

The jewelry is carefully crafted and each piece is a delicate work of art. Shlomit’s formal education was in industrial design, so she has an eye for picking out the most beautiful design elements in everyday objects. These “snap shots”, as she calls them, serve as her inspiration. The result is a fashion-forward/urban meets antique as well as 21^st century meets mid-century group of wonderful collections. With her commitment to producing affordable jewelry, I am looking forward to collecting Shlomit Ofir’s pieces for a long time.

You can find Shlomit Ofir jewelry at her boutiques in Tel Aviv, her website or our favorite new go-to site for fashion jewelry, April M, founded by yours truly, the Briefer.

 

What is the main source of your design inspiration?

I am inspired mostly by everyday things around me and try to capture the beauty in them. Leaves on a tree, flowers and birds or even the urban scenery of the city I live in are reflected in my creations.

 

Your formal training is in industrial design. How do you incorporate those design principles into your jewelry?

During my industrial design studies I had the chance to experience using different technologies which are used in various industries. In my jewelry, I try to incorporate these technologies, such as chemical etching and laser cutting, into my jewelry to create unique pieces and to widen my options for designing and manufacturing.

 

Who, past or present, has had the greatest influence on your career?

The designers which I most admire and see as a great influence are Charles and Ray Eams.  Besides their great contribution to design history, they had a great approach to their role as designers: they saw themselves not as industrial or graphic designers, but as total designers, which also plan houses, design toys and even make movies. I try to follow this approach and not to limit myself to one field of design, but to see design as a way of living.

 

The high quality product and the affordable price point of your collections are very enticing. Do you have a commitment to producing attainable art?

I see my jewelry as fashion. Therefore, it changes and evolves constantly. I would like to have my customers come back and enjoy buying new pieces often, the same as they would stock up on a new wardrobe for the season. The affordable price range enables that. Keeping my prices affordable also enables me to be creative with my design, since it’s easier for customers to take a chance with a unique piece without having to think how functional it would be for them.

 

What are you working on right now?

These days I’m working on the new jewelry collection for this upcoming winter. The main theme in the collection will be stones and crystals and I hope it will be well received as previous collections.

 

 

 

 

Style Setters: The Jewelry Brief Interviews Paolo Costagli

For years I have coveted the jewels of Paolo Costagli. The unique and enticing color combinations and crisp designs are absolutely eye-catching.

Born and raised in Florence, Italy, Paolo credits his childhood surroundings for much of his creative inspiration. Indeed, the beauty of the countryside, the history, art and architecture, found only in Italy, are evident in his designs. There is also an “old school” element to his production in which he carefully selects all of the gemstones used in his designs. Paolo speaks proudly of how the stones are set and each mounting is finished for comfort and beauty, not just on the front of the piece, but on the back as well. Each piece is a contemporary heirloom.

Paolo Costagli transitions flawlessly between the world of a Renaissance craftsman and the one that moves at the speed of Twitter. That too is perhaps a credit to his Florentine up bringing, in a place where people daily walk pst works by Brunelleschi and Ghiberti talking on iPhones. Paolo has a wonderful website and an informative blog where he writes about his life and craft, but also imparts his knowledge on buying a gemstone, cleaning jewelry or what to do if you are just a guy trying to buy a special gift. Paolo now lives and works in New York City where he has a Fifth Avenue salon.

 

Your native city of Florence is a main source of your inspiration, as it has been for artists for centuries. What is it about Florence that nurtures such creativity?

PC: Florence has inspired many artists including myself because of the wealth of history, culture, architecture and design. The city gave birth to the Renaissance and revolutionized Western culture. It is a place that provides endless inspiration to create works of art. Personally, Florence means a lot to me because it’s my home. I find inspiration for shapes and color combinations, like those found in the Giardini Dell’Iris (Iris Garden in Florence) that my mother and I used to visit, which I’ve used in my Florentine Collection.

Who has had the greatest influence in your career?

PC: The French jewelers from the Art Deco to the 1950′s periods, which epitomizes the highest standard of quality, innovation and design.

 

There is a great emphasis on color in your pieces. Explain how color fits into your creative process.

PC: As a certified gemologist, I take the entire process from sourcing the gemstones to production seriously. I believe everyone can design with only diamonds, but what I like to create are jewels that are unique through the careful selection of sophisticated color combinations.

The color of gemstones and precious metals are both the base and foundation of creating my collections and jewels. I first choose the colored stones and metal, then examine various color combinations to create a timeless and classic jewel. My jewels are supposed to be worn by many ages for different occasions with the goal of having the jewels stay in a family for generations.

 

The Organics Collection is stunning and somewhat different than your other work. Is this a new direction? Do you have a green philosophy?

PC: I would not necessarily say I’m going in a new direction with the Organics Collection, but rather, I am always striving to creatively expand with new materials and designs.

 

Your attention to every detail from design and craftsmanship to packaging is very old school, I love it, yet your website and blog are very hip, fast and modern. How do you combine the two worlds so seamlessly?

PC: The heart of my brand is based on high quality, true craftsmanship, innovation and timeless design. We are very traditional in our communication to clients, but I believe in the importance of also communicating through the web, new technologies and social media. Our clients want to be kept informed; and the web and blog is the immediate method to do so.

 

For more information or to purchase jewelry by Paolo Costagli please visit www.paolocostagli.com or 711 Fifth Avenue in New York City.

 

Faraone Mennella To Open Boutique in Capri

Congratulations to Faraone Mennella, who have just announced they will open a boutique in Capri. It will join New York and London as the places to find their exquisite jewelry. It also brings the New York-based, Italian team of Amadeo Scognamiglio and Roberto Faraone Mennella back to Italy and the source of their inspiration.

The island of Capri’s resort status dates back to the Roman Republic. Today, from mid-April to mid-October, Capri is home to the world’s most beautiful people enjoying one of the world’s most incredible natural landscapes. The island offers the best of water sports, climbing, concerts, fine dining and luxury shopping.

In a 2010 interview with the Jewelry Brief, the design team of Faraone Mennella listed Capri as a source for their creative inspiration. It is only fitting that they will open their latest boutique on the island. Faraone Mennella produces bold, yet elegant and feminine jewelry that will no doubt join the timeless creations of a select few jewelry houses.

Check out the full interview: Style Setters: The Jewelry Brief Interviews Faraone Mennella

 

Roberto Coin Teams Up With The Steve Nash Foundation

Italian, award winning jewelry manufacturer Roberto Coin and the Steve Nash Foundation have joined together to produce a line of sporty, chic designs to help benefit children globally.

 

Steve Nash is a two-time MVP guard for the Phoenix Suns basketball team. His foundation, begun in 2004, is a private charitable fund dedicated to assisting under-served children. The basketball pun is theirs, not ours; Nash is also a five-time NBA Assist Champion. The foundation’s mission is to promote children’s general health, personal development and enjoyment of life. They specifically support programs that promote early childhood development and aim to end child abuse in the US, Canada and around the world.

 

Roberto Coin began manufacturing jewelry in Vicenza, Italy’s golden city, in 1977. The brand was launched in 1996, and his designs are recognized world-wide. His signature pieces are bold and gold, each featuring a ruby accent that brings health and happiness with great style to its wearer. Still continuing to receive accolades, Roberto Coin received the top honors at the 2011 Platinum Guild International Awards in the Trends category.

 

The collection designed for the Steve Nash Foundation is said to embody the spirit of the player and the organization. I was immediately taken with the pendant, which at first glance it looks like a chic art deco inspired design, but on second glance it is the lines of a basketball court. Very clever! Being an NBA fan, the pieces have a personal attraction, but the fun geometric designs will have broad appeal. The collection is available at Roberto Coin boutiques and select jewelry stores in the US. 40% of the proceeds from the collection will go directly to the Steve Nash Foundation. This is sure to be a winning team!

 

George Jensen Silver

As the price of gold continues daily to break records, many are looking to fine silver jewelry. A name synonymous with superior quality of production and design in silver is Georg Jensen.

Georg Jensen was born in Denmark in 1866. He received early training as a goldsmith, and briefly focused his work on sculpture and ceramics. In 1904 he returned to jewelry and silver-smithy. Investing his own capital, the Georg Jensen shop was opened in Copenhagen. Georg Jensen quickly built a reputation for fine design and excellent quality craftsmanship. By the end of the 1920′s Georg Jensen had retail outlets in New York, London, Paris, Stockholm and Berlin. He died in 1935. After his death the business was continued by his son Søren Georg Jensen (1917-1982) and continues today to be a leader in the luxury market.

The initial style had a an Art Nouveau influence depicting birds and flowers, but in a stylized and simplified form. The pieces also incorporated many elements of the Arts and Crafts movement. However, Georg Jensen attracted talented designers who were encouraged to express their own design styles, which contributed to the success of the firm.

Georg Jensen pieces can easily be found both new and in the secondary market. The estate pieces are very collectible. The one shown at the left from Drucker Antiques is “Dove Brooch” No. 123, silver with green agate. It was designed by Kristian Mohl-Hansen in 1910, this particular piece bears the company hallmark for 1945. Georg Jensen jewelry is usually easy to date thanks to a detailed and readily available collection of firm hallmarks, often accompanied by the designer’s hallmark.