2011 Style Setters Review

This year at The Jewelry Brief I was lucky enough to interview five inspirational jewelry designers that are true gems in their own right. They are from far reaching corners of the globe and at different stages in their careers, but they all share the same passion for art, design and adornment.

I was delighted when Emily Wheat Maynard agreed to talk to us about her breathtaking jewelry brand, Elva Fields. As all her pieces are comprised of vintage components, each one is truly unique. Emily told us that she takes inspiration from the materials themselves and creates her collection using all the beautiful objects she finds. The stunning results are perfect jewelry for the environmentally conscious.

Jeweler, Paolo Costagli told us of the fusion between the traditional and contemporary aspects of his work and the emphasis he places on quality craftsmanship. We were also interested to learn that his knowledge of gemstones and eye for exquisite color combinations form the basis of his creative process. This combined with his upbringing in culturally rich Florence and his love of French jewelers, have inspired him to create classic jewelry that will stand the test of time.

Designer Tiffany Chou fascinated us with her ocean influenced jewelry. She told us of how important the ocean was to her, growing up on the island of Maui, and this influence is apparent through her work. Tiffany also told us that she was committed to making her jewelry affordable, so that everyone could enjoy wearing something beautiful. An unusual concern for a jeweler, but one which her fans greatly appreciate.

Shlomit Ofir answered questions from her studio in Tel Aviv. A brilliant young designer, who sees design as a way of living. She is inspired by “snap shots” from every day life so her pieces reflect a wide range of themes from beautiful birds to mid-century modern formica furniture. Shlomit also has a commitment to affordability, which allows her customer to take a chance on a unique piece.

The final interview was with Gerard Yosca, who has been making women glamorous for 25 years. Season after season, he has been creating bold, colorful statement pieces that are hand crafted in his New York studio. He said that he designs for the woman who, “gets excited about her jewelry and wears it because she likes it, regardless of whether it is on trend or appropriate”. I think he was talking about me!

The Jewelry Brief would like to thank Emily Wheat Maynard, Paolo Costagli, Tiffany Chou, Shlomit Ofir and Gerard Yosca once again for their time and wish them every success and a very prosperous 2012.

Happy New Year,

April

 

Style Setter: The Jewelry Brief Interviews Gerard Yosca

Gerard Yosca’s work speaks for itself. One look at his bold, colorful designs and you will understand that his vision is about playful, unique statement pieces. Throughout his 25 years in business, Yosca has stayed true to his vision and consistently creates bold, beautiful jewelry adorning some of the world’s most glamorous women and prestigious catwalks. Yosca has collaborated with many clothing designers including Ralph Lauren, Oscar De La Renta, Nicole Miller, and Nanette Lepore. He is an Emeritus Board Member of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America).

 

His colorful, playful attitude is reminiscent of a kid in a candy shop, and in some ways he is one. Born and raised in Queens, New York, Yosca’s career truly began when he was a child. He made craft objects and sold them on the counter of his father’s butcher shop for 10 cents a piece. His first creation was a pom pom critter with two plastic, beady eyes. The bright colors he chose for his creations call to mind the unflinching use of color in his hand-painted jewelry pieces. At Parsons School of Design he studied graphic design and advertising, but soon after returned to his love of the handmade arts. All of the his jewelry is still handcrafted in his New York Studio. Yosca prefers the title Fashion Designer; each season he creates a new, unique and inspired collection. He never follows trends, sees elements of design inspiration all around him and at the end of the day does what he has always loved to do. Women across the globe are lucky for that!

 

What is the most distinguishing characteristic in your design portfolio?

What seems so obvious is the way I work with color… painterly and the way I mix different “attitudes” in my work. You will see rough organic mixed with very refined.

 

What do you enjoy most doing?

I love building a collection. The color, scale, what motif to weave into it. When it all starts to make sense is still so exciting.

 

What are you favorite qualities in a woman to design jewelry for?

Guts. I design for a woman who gets excited by her jewelry and wears it because she likes it regardless of whether it is on trend or appropriate.

 

What is your favorite color?

Green-all the way from acid to brown/grey.

 

Who are your favorite artists?

Peter Doig for color, line, content. I never get tired of his work. Calder, for wit. Louis Comfort Tiffany, I’ve been obsessed with his glass works since I was a child.

 

What is your idea of happiness?

Being with someone to share all of the amazing things (and some bad!) that I get to see and do in this crazy lifetime.

 

 

 

 

Jewelry Gift Giving: Ideas for Everyone on Your List

When it comes to buying a gift for that special someone, make certain jewelry is number one on your list. You will surprise and delight her, and your generosity will bring enjoyment for years to come.

For a creative friend, a voucher for a jewelry-making workshop could herald the beginning of an enjoyable new hobby. Places like The Bead Boutique in Miami are popping up all over the country. Add a personal touch by choosing a selection of beads and findings that your friend might use to make her first pieces. They may even be so thrilled that you will receive a jewel of thanks!

For a gal with a penchant for a greener planet, an eco-friendly gift will undoubtedly be appreciated. Not only does buying an estate piece reduce further depletion of the earth’s resources, but it’s spot on trend. Hurry! There are several auction houses having sales this week including Heritage Auctions, Skinner and Sotheby’s. Christies will be offering Elizabeth Taylor’s Collection next week. Hours of fun can also be had trawling antique stores and market stalls for the perfect present. If you’re pressed for time there are now many jewelry designers who incorporate recycled pieces into their designs. We love the necklaces of Elva Fields, who incorporates a “found” object into each of her masterpieces.

Nothing says ‘I love you’ like a diamond. It is most romantic of gemstones and an absolute luxury. A timeless classic such as solitaire stud earrings will captivate the most discerning amongst us. The holidays are also a perfect time for proposals, so if you’re ready, a trip to Tiffany & Co. may make all the difference. There isn’t a woman alive who could honestly say that the sight of a little blue box beneath the tree wouldn’t make them weak at the knees.

 

The Jewelry of David Noble

If you covet jewelry that could adorn a rock-star, look no further than the collections of David Noble. His impressive pieces feature hammered metal finishes and ornate patterns inspired by ancient artefacts from Roman, Mayan and Etruscan treasures. Noble achieves his signature intricate embellishment by using the ‘lost wax’ method, a technique dating back more than 6,000 years that he learned at The Evanston School of Art in the late 1990’s. Prior to this he had enjoyed a successful career designing and sketching women’s wear for Bill Blass, Geoffrey Beene and Pauline Trigere. During the 80’s he launched Noble for Benton Suits, his own label that created lines for television shows including Dynasty and The Love Boat and the movie Tootsie. He also provided all the sketches for Women’s Wear Daily.

 

Working in silver and 18 karat gold, Noble produces exquisitely detailed designs involving articulated hinges to allow exceptional movement. These are often enhanced with unusual bezel set gemstones such as iolite, kyanite, peridot and tsavorite garnet that add to the antiquarian flavor of his work. Speaking of his passion for the past Noble says, “The more detailed and the more history a piece has, the more inspirational it is to me.”

 

To view his stunning statement pieces of the current collection, visit DavidNobleandCo.com

 

 

 

 

Cameo Jewelry

From ancient Sumerian and Egyptian cultures to the Victorian age, cameos are shrouded in an air of mystery. Historians and jewelry collectors still debate the origin of the word and their exact use. But one thing remains true, this style of jewelry and self adornment has lasted for thousands of years and doesn’t show signs of disappearing.

The first cameos made their appearance around 3,000 BC in the form of scarabs carved into stone. They were meant to symbolize the sun, serve as amulets and represent courage. By the time the Roman Empire swung around, cameos were status symbols and given as tokens of affection to departing soldiers. The small circles and ovals moved throughout history. They became extremely popular during the Italian Renaissance as prized jewelry for royalty, and again reemerging in the 19^th century as a favorite of England’s Queen Victoria.

Pictorially, cameos represent any number of objects. Portraits, animals, flowers, pastoral and classical scenes are just a few of the designs to pick from when you’re collecting antique objects d’art. The designs found in contemporary cameos are limitless.

Peruse the collection of colorful cameos at AprilM.com by Extasia to add a classical, but youthful, touch to your accessories wardrobe. Bracelets, earrings and necklaces utilize glass cameos in bronze mountings giving the traditional designs a contemporary appeal.

If you’re taste tends toward fine jewelry, you’ll find stunning hand-carved shell cameos set in silver and gold by Amedeo Scognamiglio at amedeonyc.com. The use of semi-precious stones in rings, cuffs and bracelets of exquisite design manage to re-create jewelry that seems to be a direct relic of the past. 

New Talent Alert: V Nunes Hand Crafted Jewelry

Brazilian jewelry designer, Veronica Nunes, has a passion for designing and crafting beautiful jewelry. Trained as a product designer, her focus is on creating jewelry that is attractive and ergonomically designed to enhance the body. Her jewelry company, V Nunes, was launched in December of 2010 with a line inspired by the natural elements of her hometown of Rio de Janeiro. Veronica is now introducing her second collection, which was influenced by the man-made elements of her adopted city, New York.

 

Architexture is stunning, modern and easy to wear. Subtle, yet recognizable details from the New York skyline run throughout Veronica’s pieces. Bricks, arches and other architectural elements are the collection’s theme. I particularly love the bold, chunky design of the “Build” ring. Each piece is hand crafted and the step-by-step photos of the process posted to V Nunes’ Facebook page give a unique look into the jeweler’s studio. Each piece is sold in eco-friendly packaging.

Style Setter: The Jewelry Brief Interviews Shlomit Ofir

Shlomit Ofir is a young Israeli designer with an amazing amount of talent and seemingly endless energy! She blogs; designs jewelry, clothing and accessories; and recently opened her second shop. I discovered her jewelry in an organic google search on vermeil. I was drawn to the simplicity and creativity of her designs. Shlomit’s pieces are beautiful, easy to wear and there is a piece for every mood or destination.

The jewelry is carefully crafted and each piece is a delicate work of art. Shlomit’s formal education was in industrial design, so she has an eye for picking out the most beautiful design elements in everyday objects. These “snap shots”, as she calls them, serve as her inspiration. The result is a fashion-forward/urban meets antique as well as 21^st century meets mid-century group of wonderful collections. With her commitment to producing affordable jewelry, I am looking forward to collecting Shlomit Ofir’s pieces for a long time.

You can find Shlomit Ofir jewelry at her boutiques in Tel Aviv, her website or our favorite new go-to site for fashion jewelry, April M, founded by yours truly, the Briefer.

 

What is the main source of your design inspiration?

I am inspired mostly by everyday things around me and try to capture the beauty in them. Leaves on a tree, flowers and birds or even the urban scenery of the city I live in are reflected in my creations.

 

Your formal training is in industrial design. How do you incorporate those design principles into your jewelry?

During my industrial design studies I had the chance to experience using different technologies which are used in various industries. In my jewelry, I try to incorporate these technologies, such as chemical etching and laser cutting, into my jewelry to create unique pieces and to widen my options for designing and manufacturing.

 

Who, past or present, has had the greatest influence on your career?

The designers which I most admire and see as a great influence are Charles and Ray Eams.  Besides their great contribution to design history, they had a great approach to their role as designers: they saw themselves not as industrial or graphic designers, but as total designers, which also plan houses, design toys and even make movies. I try to follow this approach and not to limit myself to one field of design, but to see design as a way of living.

 

The high quality product and the affordable price point of your collections are very enticing. Do you have a commitment to producing attainable art?

I see my jewelry as fashion. Therefore, it changes and evolves constantly. I would like to have my customers come back and enjoy buying new pieces often, the same as they would stock up on a new wardrobe for the season. The affordable price range enables that. Keeping my prices affordable also enables me to be creative with my design, since it’s easier for customers to take a chance with a unique piece without having to think how functional it would be for them.

 

What are you working on right now?

These days I’m working on the new jewelry collection for this upcoming winter. The main theme in the collection will be stones and crystals and I hope it will be well received as previous collections.

 

 

 

 

Jewelers Support National Breast Cancer Awareness Month

October is National Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Begun 25 years ago, this initiative was designed to not only promotes awareness, but to educate and empower women about early detection and treatment options. Breast cancer is still the second leading cause of cancer deaths among women in the US. Fundraising efforts by various organizations are held this month to help off-set costs for underserved women and support research. Many jewelers have joined in the crusade against breast cancer by pledging a portion of their profits this month to this effort, some have even designed pieces. Most of the jewelry is pink to honor the efforts of Evelyn Lauder, who established the pink ribbon as the symbol for breast cancer in 1993.

 

We welcome any jewelers or designers that have created pieces or promotions in support of National Breast Cancer Awareness Month to post pictures on our Facebook page. www.facebook.com/jewelrybrief

Our examples are from Elva Fields, Emma Stine and Taylor Kenney Jewelry.

Style Setters: The Jewelry Brief Interviews Paolo Costagli

For years I have coveted the jewels of Paolo Costagli. The unique and enticing color combinations and crisp designs are absolutely eye-catching.

Born and raised in Florence, Italy, Paolo credits his childhood surroundings for much of his creative inspiration. Indeed, the beauty of the countryside, the history, art and architecture, found only in Italy, are evident in his designs. There is also an “old school” element to his production in which he carefully selects all of the gemstones used in his designs. Paolo speaks proudly of how the stones are set and each mounting is finished for comfort and beauty, not just on the front of the piece, but on the back as well. Each piece is a contemporary heirloom.

Paolo Costagli transitions flawlessly between the world of a Renaissance craftsman and the one that moves at the speed of Twitter. That too is perhaps a credit to his Florentine up bringing, in a place where people daily walk past works by Brunelleschi and Ghiberti talking on iPhones. Paolo has a wonderful website and an informative blog where he writes about his life and craft, but also imparts his knowledge on buying a gemstone, cleaning jewelry or what to do if you are just a guy trying to buy a special gift. Paolo now lives and works in New York City where he has a Fifth Avenue salon.

 

Your native city of Florence is a main source of your inspiration, as it has been for artists for centuries. What is it about Florence that nurtures such creativity?

PC: Florence has inspired many artists including myself because of the wealth of history, culture, architecture and design. The city gave birth to the Renaissance and revolutionized Western culture. It is a place that provides endless inspiration to create works of art. Personally, Florence means a lot to me because it’s my home. I find inspiration for shapes and color combinations, like those found in the Giardini Dell’Iris (Iris Garden in Florence) that my mother and I used to visit, which I’ve used in my Florentine Collection.

Who has had the greatest influence in your career?

PC: The French jewelers from the Art Deco to the 1950′s periods, which epitomizes the highest standard of quality, innovation and design.

 

There is a great emphasis on color in your pieces. Explain how color fits into your creative process.

PC: As a certified gemologist, I take the entire process from sourcing the gemstones to production seriously. I believe everyone can design with only diamonds, but what I like to create are jewels that are unique through the careful selection of sophisticated color combinations.

The color of gemstones and precious metals are both the base and foundation of creating my collections and jewels. I first choose the colored stones and metal, then examine various color combinations to create a timeless and classic jewel. My jewels are supposed to be worn by many ages for different occasions with the goal of having the jewels stay in a family for generations.

 

The Organics Collection is stunning and somewhat different than your other work. Is this a new direction? Do you have a green philosophy?

PC: I would not necessarily say I’m going in a new direction with the Organics Collection, but rather, I am always striving to creatively expand with new materials and designs.

 

Your attention to every detail from design and craftsmanship to packaging is very old school, I love it, yet your website and blog are very hip, fast and modern. How do you combine the two worlds so seamlessly?

PC: The heart of my brand is based on high quality, true craftsmanship, innovation and timeless design. We are very traditional in our communication to clients, but I believe in the importance of also communicating through the web, new technologies and social media. Our clients want to be kept informed; and the web and blog is the immediate method to do so.

 

For more information or to purchase jewelry by Paolo Costagli please visit www.paolocostagli.com or 711 Fifth Avenue in New York City.

 

DeLatori Jewelers Launches Lockets For A Cause

Instead of just holding a cause near to your heart, why not wear it? DeLatori jewelers has created “Lockets for a Cause” with that thought in mind. The beautiful lockets are made in their signature filigree style, but include the modern trend of a charity ribbon safely inside next to a spot for your special photo. What could be more sentimental?

“Lockets for a Cause” is the result of a collaboration between DeLatori founders Ori Zemer, Tal Zemer and Marilyn Harrell whose motto is “Beauty Transcending Time”. The lockets are detailed 18-karat gold-plated over sterling silver, featuring a colored enamel ribbon on the interior. A portion of all proceeds will benefit causes including breast cancer awareness, heart disease research and supporting our troops.

DeLatori will also work closely with individual retailers to tie-in local charities and events to the collection. We love that!

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