Carat weight is metric carats, 1.00ct equals .20grams.

Color begins with D and ends with Z, before “fancy” color grades begin. D is the grade given to a diamond that is colorless. Most diamonds set in jewelry fall in the nearly-colorless range (G-H-I and J). J is probably where the untrained eye will begin to see hints of yellow or brown in the diamond.

Clarity has six possible grades, four of them having further sub-divisions, which refer to the size, location and number of internal inclusions or external blemishes as seen by 10x magnification. Clarity should be thought of as a diamond’s fingerprint: internal inclusions help separate natural from lab created diamonds and can be used to identify the stone itself. The grades begin with Flawless (FL) for a diamond with no internal inclusions or external blemishes, next is Internally Flawless (IF). While many dream of owning a flawless diamond these stone are very rare. Continuing down the scale the grades are Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1-2), Very Slightly Included (VS1-2), Slightly Included (SI1-2) and Included (I1-2-3).

Cut, which describes the face up shape and style of facets the diamond has, is also shown in depth and table (the largest facet at the top of the stone) percentages for the stone. For round brilliant cut diamonds an actual Cut Grade is given. This is important to you as the consumer because this relates to the amount of light that a diamond returns to you: fire and scintillation (sparkle). You should judge diamonds in person; I urge you to compare diamonds and not just read reports. Your diamond should speak to you!

This subject is too vast for one brief! I encourage you to look at a report and send The Jewelry Brief any questions. Let us know if you are interested in learning in-depth about any of these subjects. Since the original publication date of this post in August of 2009, GIA has developed  4Cs applications for the iPad. The consumer version is available on iTunes.

Why You Should (still) Know How to Read A GIA Certificate Copyright © 2009-2011 The Jewelry Brief All Rights Reserved.

You can take inspiration from these warm-weather suggestions and punch up your winter wardrobe. And there’s no better way to add some spice to your every day outfits than with accessories. This resort season, designers did not disappoint in terms of offering their own stand out jewelry pieces. Think bright, neon colors like hot pink and shades of blue. Missoni’s accessories were big and bold and the line favored cool, Caribbean blue. Alexis Bittar offers bright neon yellow and green cuffs that are perfect for pairing with a plain black turtleneck in the middle of Winter. When it comes to the size of your jewelry pieces, more is more. Large colors call for large, in-your-face proportions. Big necklaces made of shells and endless strands of beads compliment any neutral hue and were also a runway favorite.

Pick one stand-out piece and work it into your every day jewelry. These bright, bold pieces don’t have to be an investment; their trendy status is likely to dissipate with the season.

Jewelry Trends: Resort 2012 Copyright © 2009-2011 The Jewelry Brief All Rights Reserved.

I was delighted when Emily Wheat Maynard agreed to talk to us about her breathtaking jewelry brand, Elva Fields. As all her pieces are comprised of vintage components, each one is truly unique. Emily told us that she takes inspiration from the materials themselves and creates her collection using all the beautiful objects she finds. The stunning results are perfect jewelry for the environmentally conscious.

Jeweler, Paolo Costagli told us of the fusion between the traditional and contemporary aspects of his work and the emphasis he places on quality craftsmanship. We were also interested to learn that his knowledge of gemstones and eye for exquisite color combinations form the basis of his creative process. This combined with his upbringing in culturally rich Florence and his love of French jewelers, have inspired him to create classic jewelry that will stand the test of time.

Designer Tiffany Chou fascinated us with her ocean influenced jewelry. She told us of how important the ocean was to her, growing up on the island of Maui, and this influence is apparent through her work. Tiffany also told us that she was committed to making her jewelry affordable, so that everyone could enjoy wearing something beautiful. An unusual concern for a jeweler, but one which her fans greatly appreciate.

Shlomit Ofir answered questions from her studio in Tel Aviv. A brilliant young designer, who sees design as a way of living. She is inspired by “snap shots” from every day life so her pieces reflect a wide range of themes from beautiful birds to mid-century modern formica furniture. Shlomit also has a commitment to affordability, which allows her customer to take a chance on a unique piece.

The final interview was with Gerard Yosca, who has been making women glamorous for 25 years. Season after season, he has been creating bold, colorful statement pieces that are hand crafted in his New York studio. He said that he designs for the woman who, “gets excited about her jewelry and wears it because she likes it, regardless of whether it is on trend or appropriate”. I think he was talking about me!

The Jewelry Brief would like to thank Emily Wheat Maynard, Paolo Costagli, Tiffany Chou, Shlomit Ofir and Gerard Yosca once again for their time and wish them every success and a very prosperous 2012.

Happy New Year,

April

2011 Style Setters Review Copyright © 2009-2011 The Jewelry Brief All Rights Reserved.

Gerard Yosca’s work speaks for itself. One look at his bold, colorful designs and you will understand that his vision is about playful, unique statement pieces. Throughout his 25 years in business, Yosca has stayed true to his vision and consistently creates bold, beautiful jewelry adorning some of the world’s most glamorous women and prestigious catwalks. Yosca has collaborated with many clothing designers including Ralph Lauren, Oscar De La Renta, Nicole Miller, and Nanette Lepore. He is an Emeritus Board Member of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America).

His colorful, playful attitude is reminiscent of a kid in a candy shop, and in some ways he is one. Born and raised in Queens, New York, Yosca’s career truly began when he was a child. He made craft objects and sold them on the counter of his father’s butcher shop for 10 cents a piece. His first creation was a pom pom critter with two plastic, beady eyes. The bright colors he chose for his creations call to mind the unflinching use of color in his hand-painted jewelry pieces. At Parsons School of Design he studied graphic design and advertising, but soon after returned to his love of the handmade arts. All of the his jewelry is still handcrafted in his New York Studio. Yosca prefers the title Fashion Designer; each season he creates a new, unique and inspired collection. He never follows trends, sees elements of design inspiration all around him and at the end of the day does what he has always loved to do. Women across the globe are lucky for that!

What is the most distinguishing characteristic in your design portfolio?

What seems so obvious is the way I work with color… painterly and the way I mix different “attitudes” in my work. You will see rough organic mixed with very refined.

What do you enjoy most doing?

I love building a collection. The color, scale, what motif to weave into it. When it all starts to make sense is still so exciting.

What are you favorite qualities in a woman to design jewelry for?

Guts. I design for a woman who gets excited by her jewelry and wears it because she likes it regardless of whether it is on trend or appropriate.

What is your favorite color?

Green-all the way from acid to brown/grey.

Who are your favorite artists?

Peter Doig for color, line, content. I never get tired of his work. Calder, for wit. Louis Comfort Tiffany, I’ve been obsessed with his glass works since I was a child.

What is your idea of happiness?

Being with someone to share all of the amazing things (and some bad!) that I get to see and do in this crazy lifetime.

Style Setter: The Jewelry Brief Interviews Gerard Yosca Copyright © 2009-2011 The Jewelry Brief All Rights Reserved.

For a creative friend, a voucher for a jewelry-making workshop could herald the beginning of an enjoyable new hobby. Places like The Bead Boutique in Miami are popping up all over the country. Add a personal touch by choosing a selection of beads and findings that your friend might use to make her first pieces. They may even be so thrilled that you will receive a jewel of thanks!

For a gal with a penchant for a greener planet, an eco-friendly gift will undoubtedly be appreciated. Not only does buying an estate piece reduce further depletion of the earth’s resources, but it’s spot on trend. Hurry! There are several auction houses having sales this week including Heritage Auctions, Skinner and Sotheby’s. Christies will be offering Elizabeth Taylor’s Collection next week. Hours of fun can also be had trawling antique stores and market stalls for the perfect present. If you’re pressed for time there are now many jewelry designers who incorporate recycled pieces into their designs. We love the necklaces of Elva Fields, who incorporates a “found” object into each of her masterpieces.

Nothing says ‘I love you’ like a diamond. It is most romantic of gemstones and an absolute luxury. A timeless classic such as solitaire stud earrings will captivate the most discerning amongst us. The holidays are also a perfect time for proposals, so if you’re ready, a trip to Tiffany & Co. may make all the difference. There isn’t a woman alive who could honestly say that the sight of a little blue box beneath the tree wouldn’t make them weak at the knees.

Jewelry Gift Giving: Ideas for Everyone on Your List Copyright © 2009-2011 The Jewelry Brief All Rights Reserved.

If you covet jewelry that could adorn a rock-star, look no further than the collections of David Noble. His impressive pieces feature hammered metal finishes and ornate patterns inspired by ancient artefacts from Roman, Mayan and Etruscan treasures. Noble achieves his signature intricate embellishment by using the ‘lost wax’ method, a technique dating back more than 6,000 years that he learned at The Evanston School of Art in the late 1990’s. Prior to this he had enjoyed a successful career designing and sketching women’s wear for Bill Blass, Geoffrey Beene and Pauline Trigere. During the 80’s he launched Noble for Benton Suits, his own label that created lines for television shows including Dynasty and The Love Boat and the movie Tootsie. He also provided all the sketches for Women’s Wear Daily.

Working in silver and 18 karat gold, Noble produces exquisitely detailed designs involving articulated hinges to allow exceptional movement. These are often enhanced with unusual bezel set gemstones such as iolite, kyanite, peridot and tsavorite garnet that add to the antiquarian flavor of his work. Speaking of his passion for the past Noble says, “The more detailed and the more history a piece has, the more inspirational it is to me.”

To view his stunning statement pieces of the current collection, visit DavidNobleandCo.com

The Jewelry of David Noble Copyright © 2009-2011 The Jewelry Brief All Rights Reserved.

The first cameos made their appearance around 3,000 BC in the form of scarabs carved into stone. They were meant to symbolize the sun, serve as amulets and represent courage. By the time the Roman Empire swung around, cameos were status symbols and given as tokens of affection to departing soldiers. The small circles and ovals moved throughout history. They became extremely popular during the Italian Renaissance as prized jewelry for royalty, and again reemerging in the 19^th century as a favorite of England’s Queen Victoria.

Pictorially, cameos represent any number of objects. Portraits, animals, flowers, pastoral and classical scenes are just a few of the designs to pick from when you’re collecting antique objects d’art. The designs found in contemporary cameos are limitless.

Peruse the collection of colorful cameos at AprilM.com by Extasia to add a classical, but youthful, touch to your accessories wardrobe. Bracelets, earrings and necklaces utilize glass cameos in bronze mountings giving the traditional designs a contemporary appeal.

If you’re taste tends toward fine jewelry, you’ll find stunning hand-carved shell cameos set in silver and gold by Amedeo Scognamiglio at amedeonyc.com. The use of semi-precious stones in rings, cuffs and bracelets of exquisite design manage to re-create jewelry that seems to be a direct relic of the past. 

Cameo Jewelry Copyright © 2009-2011 The Jewelry Brief All Rights Reserved.

Architexture is stunning, modern and easy to wear. Subtle, yet recognizable details from the New York skyline run throughout Veronica’s pieces. Bricks, arches and other architectural elements are the collection’s theme. I particularly love the bold, chunky design of the “Build” ring. Each piece is hand crafted and the step-by-step photos of the process posted to V Nunes’ Facebook page give a unique look into the jeweler’s studio. Each piece is sold in eco-friendly packaging.

New Talent Alert: V Nunes Hand Crafted Jewelry Copyright © 2009-2011 The Jewelry Brief All Rights Reserved.

The jewelry is carefully crafted and each piece is a delicate work of art. Shlomit’s formal education was in industrial design, so she has an eye for picking out the most beautiful design elements in everyday objects. These “snap shots”, as she calls them, serve as her inspiration. The result is a fashion-forward/urban meets antique as well as 21^st century meets mid-century group of wonderful collections. With her commitment to producing affordable jewelry, I am looking forward to collecting Shlomit Ofir’s pieces for a long time.

You can find Shlomit Ofir jewelry at her boutiques in Tel Aviv, her website or our favorite new go-to site for fashion jewelry, April M, founded by yours truly, the Briefer.

What is the main source of your design inspiration?

I am inspired mostly by everyday things around me and try to capture the beauty in them. Leaves on a tree, flowers and birds or even the urban scenery of the city I live in are reflected in my creations.

Your formal training is in industrial design. How do you incorporate those design principles into your jewelry?

During my industrial design studies I had the chance to experience using different technologies which are used in various industries. In my jewelry, I try to incorporate these technologies, such as chemical etching and laser cutting, into my jewelry to create unique pieces and to widen my options for designing and manufacturing.

Who, past or present, has had the greatest influence on your career?

The designers which I most admire and see as a great influence are Charles and Ray Eams.  Besides their great contribution to design history, they had a great approach to their role as designers: they saw themselves not as industrial or graphic designers, but as total designers, which also plan houses, design toys and even make movies. I try to follow this approach and not to limit myself to one field of design, but to see design as a way of living.

The high quality product and the affordable price point of your collections are very enticing. Do you have a commitment to producing attainable art?

I see my jewelry as fashion. Therefore, it changes and evolves constantly. I would like to have my customers come back and enjoy buying new pieces often, the same as they would stock up on a new wardrobe for the season. The affordable price range enables that. Keeping my prices affordable also enables me to be creative with my design, since it’s easier for customers to take a chance with a unique piece without having to think how functional it would be for them.

What are you working on right now?

These days I’m working on the new jewelry collection for this upcoming winter. The main theme in the collection will be stones and crystals and I hope it will be well received as previous collections.

Style Setter: The Jewelry Brief Interviews Shlomit Ofir Copyright © 2009-2011 The Jewelry Brief All Rights Reserved.

We welcome any jewelers or designers that have created pieces or promotions in support of National Breast Cancer Awareness Month to post pictures on our Facebook page. www.facebook.com/jewelrybrief

Our examples are from Elva Fields, Emma Stine and Taylor Kenney Jewelry.

Jewelers Support National Breast Cancer Awareness Month Copyright © 2009-2011 The Jewelry Brief All Rights Reserved.