The Allure of Opals

Opals, surrounded by myth and misunderstanding, are one of the most beautiful gemstones.

Opal is a mineral species which displays a phenomena known as “play of color”. This means that the stone can display different hues or flashes in just about any color depending on the viewpoint, orientation or lighting conditions. The colors, however, only appears to change. Pattern and vibrancy are the major determining factors of value.

The biggest myth about the opal is that it brings bad luck. The modern myth of bad luck is widely attributed to a mid-19^th Century novel by Sir Walter Scott titled “Anne of Geierstein”. In the novel an opal is used to reflect the changing fortunes of the heroine, and the myth was born. However, since the beginning of civilization the opal has also been highly regarded. It is often seen as a symbol of strength. One lovely story of opals is told by Australian Aborigines. They speak of their Creator traveling via rainbow to spread the message of peace on earth and with each step the stones underfoot turned to rainbows (opals).

Opals do require some special care. Opals are soft stones, they score only a 5- 6.5 on the Moh’s Scale of Hardness (diamond is a 10). Never put an opal in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, sudden changes in temperature can cause the stone to crack or craze. But opal is not a mood stone, your temperature can not change the color of the stone. Opal is the traditional birth stone for the month of October.

A Slice of Diamond Jewelry

This Fall I am coveting diamond slice jewelry. While still on the fence as to whether it is fad or new classic; I love it.

The pieces feature, as it sounds, a slice of real diamond. The slices most often contain many inclusions. I assume the slices were removed from the outer layer of a rough diamond and previously might have been used in an industrial application. The diamonds are flat, or slightly faceted, and too thin to have the scintillation of a modern brilliant cut. But, they still have the undeniable look of a diamond. The jewelry has a very organic and earthy appeal.

My internet search for the perfect slice produced, the ring shown here by Melissa Joy Manning and this pendant necklace by Barry Kronen.

Eco-friendly, style maven Monique Péan, also incorporates diamonds slices into her line of sustainable and conflict-free jewelry. Ms. Péan’s designs have been popping up everywhere from the red carpet to the White House, and I am sure these earrings will be no exception.

The Auction Market in Brief

This Fall’s auction sales have posted some impressive results, most surpassing the high estimates and bringing fresh, interesting jewelry to market.

The Doyle New York sale last week showed that Art Deco, Belle Epoque pieces and David Webb are all still hot items. The David Webb necklace, shown here, was part of the Estate of the Honorable Florence Shientag and was sold for $80,500. A Cartier Belle Epoque chocker on a pink velvet ribbon brought $43,750; and a pair of Art Deco Diamond and Jade Earrings by Janesich also went for $43,750.

Sotheby’s recent sale in New York totaled $15,047,802. Highlights included a Natural Pearl Necklace, ranging in size from 4.67mm-10.80mm, which brought $98,500, against a pre-sale estimate of $20,000-30,000; and an Art Deco Ring, circa 1935, featuring a 8.50ct sugarloaf Kashmir sapphire selling for $296,500.

The Skinner sale earlier last month can also boast numerous highlights, including a whimsical Tiffany and Company antique carved moonstone and diamonds “Man in the Moon” brooch which sold for $20,145; and an Art Deco Tiffany and Company Diamond Solitaire which sold for $281,000 against a pre-sale estimate of $75,000-100,000.

What is coming up?

There is a full calendar of auctions for the rest of the year both here and abroad. On the 19^th of October Bonham’s will simulcast a Fine Jewelry Sale in their three US locations. Bonham’s has a wonderful, user-friendly online catalogue and a printable version is also available. The sale features some beautiful antique jewelry, as well as a very impressive collection of unusual Marsh jewelry from the Estate of Margaret Roebling Perrine.

On October 20, Christie’s will auction off The Bulgari Blue as part of their Fine Jewelry Sale. This is the largest triangular shaped fancy vivid blue diamond ever sold at auction. The 10.95ct blue diamond is priced upon request for interested bidders, but is expected to bring in over $12 million. The diamond is set in its original twin stone ring mounting. Its twin diamond is a 9.87ct colorless triangle cut designed by Bulgari in the 1970s for the European collector who is now selling it. More information and the sale catalogue can be found on line at www.christies.com or via the Christie’s iPhone app (recently updated and working fabulously).

On November 20, in London Sotheby’s will sell 20 pieces that once belonged to the Duchess of Windsor, originally offered in the first historical sale of her jewels in 1987. Wrapping up the auction season on December 7, Skinner will host the fourth of their quarterly Fine Jewelry sales in Boston.