Why You Should Know How to Read a GIA Certificate

If you are planning to make a diamond purchase you will need to have an idea of what is important to you about your diamond. And you should have a budget. If you are lucky, the two will meet. Chances are that your jeweler will show you diamonds with Gemological Institute of America Diamond Grading Reports or Certificates. In the 1940s and 50s GIA developed its international Diamond Grading System. Today, this grading system is the industry standard for diamond commerce; and GIA has laboratories around the world that issue certificates by highly trained gemologists. A stone certified by the GIA should put you at ease when purchasing and aid if you ever want to sell or trade-in your diamond. The report will contain the four Cs of the diamond.

Carat weight is metric carats, 1.00ct equals .20grams.

Color begins with D and ends with Z, before “fancy” color grades begin. D is the grade given to a diamond that is colorless. Most diamonds set in jewelry fall in the nearly-colorless range (G-H-I and J). J is probably where the untrained eye will begin to see tints of yellow or brown in the diamond.

Clarity has six possible grades, four of them having further sub-divisions, which refer to the size, location and number of internal inclusions or external blemishes as seen by 10x magnification. Clarity should be thought of as a diamond’s fingerprint: internal inclusions help separate natural from lab created diamonds and can be used to identify the stone itself. The grades begin with Flawless (FL) for a diamond with no internal inclusions or external blemishes, next is Internally Flawless (IF). While many dream of owning a flawless diamond these stone are very rare. Continuing down the scale the grades are Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1-2), Very Slightly Included (VS1-2), Slightly Included (SI1-2) and Included (I1-2-3).

Cut, which describes the face up shape and style of facets the diamond has, is also shown in depth and table (the largest facet at the top of the stone) percentages for the stone. For round brilliant cut diamonds an actual Cut Grade is given. This is important to you as the consumer because this relates to the amount of light that a diamond returns to you: fire and scintillation (sparkle). You should judge diamonds in person; I urge you to compare diamonds and not just read reports. Your diamond should speak to you!

This subject is too vast for one brief! I encourage you to look at a report and send The Jewelry Brief any questions. Let us know if you are interested in learning in-depth about any of these subjects.

Off the Cuff

Bold yet easy to wear, cuff bracelets are our new (old) favorite. The statement making bracelets can be found in every material; and they look just as great with a sweater and jeans as they do with a little black dress.

The best classic cuff design is the Maltese Cross by Verdura. Originally designed in 1936 by Duke Fulco di Verdura for Coco Chanel, the bracelet is still produced by Verdura today. Each bracelet is fitted to the customer’s wrist and some of the bracelets have a detachable cross that can be interchanged with cuffs of various materials. Elsa Peretti’s Bone Cuff for Tiffany & Co. is quite possibly the sexiest piece of jewelry around. The classic organic design is available in 18kt yellow gold, silver, or ruthenium over copper for the budget conscious.

Bakelite, which is a dense synthetic resin, is a colorful option for cuffs. Invented in 1907, it was popular in kitchen items and jewelry through the 1940s because of the ease with which it could be molded and carved. It can be found in modern and vintage jewelry; although some of the very colorful, unusual period pieces can be as expensive as their precious metal counter parts.

If you dare follow in the path of the great style icon Coco Chanel you may want to stack your cuffs or wear a pair, one on each wrist.

Should You Insure Your Jewelry?

Yes. While most jewelry has high sentimental value, it also has intrinsic value, and once the shock of loosing or damaging a favorite piece has passed you will want to replace it. Most insurance companies will require that a graduate gemologist appraise your jewelry, diamonds over 3cts. should be plotted, and taking pictures is always a good idea. Some homeowner’s policies give the policyholder the option of adding personal property as a rider. Other insurance companies, like Jewelers Mutual will write a policy for your jewelry alone; for more information visit www.jewelersmutual.com. Most fine jewelry stores offer appraisal services. The National Association of Jewelry Appraisers is the only appraisal organization dedicated solely to jewelry. For a list of member appraisers in your area visit www.najaappraisers.com . Appraisals should be updated every two to five years; and please always save all original paperwork, diamond certificates, and specialty boxes like watch boxes.

The Jewelry of Raymond Yard

The jewels of Raymond Yard are simply exquisite.  They can be viewed in fantastic number, color and splendor in Yard: The Life and Magnificent Jewelry of Raymond C. Yard, by Natasha Kuzmaovic, The  Vendome Press. The book is not new to the market, published in 2007, but it is new to me and I would like to tell you it is sure to delight and educate all.
Kuzmanovic tells the tale of Raymond Yard, the man and the enterprise in four sections dividing the story of Raymond Yard, his firm, his clients and his style. Mr. Yard’s personal story, which has an almost fairy tale like quality, begins after the unexpected death of his father in 1898, the very young Raymond Yard began his career in the jewelry industry at the esteemed American jeweler Marcus and Company…as the door boy.  He worked his way through the company developing a keen eye and a loyal customer following.  With the encouragement of some of his most influential clients, Raymond Yard opened his own shop in 1922.  Mr. Yard’s clients and business associates read like the who’s who of 20th century America. Kuzmanovic demonstrates in word and careful selection of accompanying photographs the attention to detail, fashion and taste of the firm and its clientele. Throughout the style changes of the 20th century: Art Deco, the war years, post war years, the 60s and onward, Raymond Yard produced exquisite jewelry. The choice of stones and workmanship was always top notch, which is even evident through the photographs in the book. The pieces are not totally without whimsy, there is a chapter of the book dedicated to figural pins: rabbits as waiters, mice and houses.
The book closes with an afterword by Robert M. Gibson, who became President of the firm in 1989. Mr. Gibson’s father worked for Mr. Yard and took over the firm along with two other employees upon his retirement.  Raymond Yard continues to produce jewelry, drawing inspiration from its magnificent jewels of the past and maintaining the firm’s commitment to quality and craftsmanship. A very interesting and beautiful book.